FK 18: time for a project
Things are tough out there! You can visibly see and feel the COVID panic in DC— today, I raced over to a public library in my neighborhood after hearing a warning about low test supplies to find a horde of people surrounding the at-home test pickup table. If you’re traveling for the holidays, I hope you can find a test near you and that you have access to good masks. For DC people, the public libraries will be distributing free rapid tests starting tomorrow (Dec 22).
One of my favorite parts about going home to Kentucky is having family around to eat my project bakes— this year, as I’m planning on mostly staying in, I’ll be keeping myself occupied in the kitchen. If COVID is cancelling your plans for you or if the kitchen is your escape from family drama during the holidays, there’s no better time than the present to get started:
a project bake
First thing on my list is the cookie of 2021: LaniBakes’s marbled shortbread. This cookie is on all of my feeds and might be the most beautiful cookie in the world. With thirty or so steps and six hours of chilling/active time, this is an ideal project bake. I’ve loved seeing all of the festive color combos— not just red and green— and the sprinkles for a nice aesthetic touch. Aside from the colors and optional sprinkles on the edges, this seems like a pretty basic slice and bake shortbread situation, but I’m still excited to try it out. Susan Spungen’s tahini-flavored marbled cookies look really nice, too. Maybe for a cookie box, if you’re really feeling it?
Flan. My brother is the biggest flan fan I’ve ever met— I’ve never seen him happier than when he bought trays of the stuff from a local business for his high school Spanish class and returned home with a good chunk left to eat all himself. Flan may be a little polarizing for picky eaters because of the jello-like consistency. Perhaps tell your family to grow up? I joke, but flan is stunning even if it takes a bit of time and technique. You’ll need to make a caramel, prepare a water bath, and let the finished product chill for a few hours before cutting into it. Zoe Francois (from Zoe Bakes) has a great recipe and run-through on her Instagram stories. Her visuals really helped me figuring out doneness indicators for the flan itself, which can be rubbery if overbaked. This is the kind of dessert that requires a lot of attention, so it’s ideal for taking your mind off of whatever’s going on and locking in.
Nicola Lamb’s Maple Pumpkin Tart. Nicola Lamb’s Kitchen Projects is a great resource for type-A bakers who like to see breakdowns about ingredients and mathematical precision in their bakes. Every week I’m tempted to take on a huge, complicated bake thanks to this newsletter, but since Thanksgiving I’ve had my eye on this pumpkin tart. Christmas seems like the last acceptable time to eat pumpkin pie, an objectively delicious food.
This post even gives instructions on how to make quenelles, a pastry chef flourish that makes a tart look especially pretty.
Croquembouche. If you’re really going for it, nothing seems more difficult (or festive) than a croquembouche. A croquembouche is basically a Christmas tree made of cream puff and hot, sticky, stringy caramel. A true culinary feat, and one of the most difficult bakes in Claire Saffitz’s Dessert Person, it’s worth it to say you did it once.
Ruth Reichl’s giant celebration cake. If you’re a Ruth Reichl fan, you’ll recognize the cake from Comfort Me with Apples. If you haven’t read this memoir, I’d highly encourage you pick it up for your holiday down time. It’s incredibly dramatic and compelling in the best ways, and this absurd cake will suddenly make both more and less sense to you. This cake serves 20-25, so prepare to chow down.
project cooking
When I’m stressed out, doing something tactile helps a lot— which is why I’m looking forward to making a big batch of dumplings during the holidays. This is really fun to do with a sibling, parent, or partner, and the leftovers freeze really nicely, ready to eat in January when it’s time to head back to work or school. I’m planning to try out one of Hetty McKinnon’s dumpling recipes, but this recipe that I tried earlier this year is also great.
Lasagna. There are few things more comforting than eating lasagna. Between making the sauce and preparing the filling and noodles, it can take a few hours start to finish to make one of these bad boys. I’m partial to a cheese lasagna (no béchamel), but a veggie lasagna wouldn’t be bad either. Since the final product will weigh like 15 pounds, sharing with family isn’t a bad choice here, and the leftovers also freeze well.
Biryani. This recipe from Sohla El-Waylly is, as one commenter described, “a labor of love.” Finding the proper rice might be an adventure if you’re not near any specialty grocery stores, but the end result is satisfying and warming on a cold and/or anxiety-ridden day.
A low-and-slow roast chicken. A few weeks ago, I treated myself to 2019’s viral slow-roasted gochujang chicken recipe. Instead of doing a whole chicken, you can certainly do thighs (I did). The end result is very tender meat with a sticky, funky, slightly spicy sauce and some beautifully tender and schmaltzy potatoes. Even though I was late to the party on this one, it truly is a nourishing meal that you can put in the oven to slow-roast while you do a puzzle and bask in the holiday downtime. Romanticize your own life!
fun little snacks
cheese ball: A classic southern/midwestern appetizer. When I went to college I realized this is actually a regional food, and my friends let me know that a cheese ball seems gross in theory. I say get through the initial mental block and embrace the southern/midwestern obsession with all things cream cheese; you will be greatly rewarded. I like this recipe from Trader Joe’s, but this Spicewalla version with Za’atar looks really intriguing. Beware the cream cheese shortage :(
spinach and feta tarte de soleil: easy and fun and beautiful!
meatballs: A little meatball is a classic holiday treat. If you’re going for an appetizers-for-dinner vibe, you’d be remiss not to include a little meatball (if you eat meat). I don’t do red meat, so I advocate for chicken or turkey, but you do you.
spinach artichoke dip: the ultimate crowd pleaser. serve with tortilla chips.
favorite recent bites
if you’re looking for a chocolate cake without frosting that’s light, moist, and easy to put together, look no further than this chocolate olive oil cake by our queen Melissa Clark. We made this this week to celebrate Lucas’s new job, and we ate the whole thing between the two of us. As it turns out a good deal of olive oil is not sustainably sourced, so I’d recommend using a nicer bottle here for both taste and good conscience.
Poached Chicken over Brothy Rice with a Cilantro-Scallion Sauce: I really enjoyed this recipe from Molly Baz’s cookbook. I have to admit, I don’t like this cookbook that much. But, I did really like this recipe, for which you make a very gingery chicken broth and top everything with a really nice, chunky green sauce.
Lucas made a beautiful brunch of Venezuelan-style arepas with perico
If you have access to the Dupont Circle farmer’s market, I highly recommend the stall with meats near the end (Ecofriendly Farms)— they have really nice hot Italian chicken sausage patties which taste great on a toasted English muffin with an egg, cheese, spicy mayo, and caramelized onion. Friend of the newsletter Julia goes there often to get specialty cuts for homemade broth— we love these people!!
If you don’t want to make aforementioned sandwich yourself, the Hog Haven breakfast sandwich at the market is just as good. Add caramelized onions and spinach and sub with a turkey patty for a 10/10 Sunday breakfast
All Purpose in Shaw has a great happy hour— $10 for a superior pizza!
reading and watching and laughing
On new book Seed Money and Monsanto’s influence in agriculture
Lisa Held talks to the folks from Little Sesame about regenerative farming!!